We finally had a day to walk and pray along the Via Dolorosa in Jerusalem. The traditional full "Palm Sunday walk" route is no longer possible. It began in Bethany, a city now called Azariah - for Lazarus. After he raised Lazarus from the dead the final plot began to kill Jesus. The traditional walk begins at the convent marking the home of Mary & Martha and walking in to Jerusalem. This walk is no longer possible because The Wall separates Azariah / Bethany from Jerusalem.
So we began at the Mount of Olives, with a short detour to the Mosque marking Jesus' Ascension and the Pater Noster Church marking Jesus' teaching the disciples to pray. We entered Jerusalem through St Stephen's gate and walked the route from Jesus' Condemnation to the church of the Holy Sepulcher & traditional place of the Crucifixion & tomb.
There were huge crowds along the way, some very devout, others less interested, and shop-keepers eager to divert us from our spiritual purposes. I always remind myself that this is actually what it was like when it took place in Jesus' time. It was not a nice, quiet, prayerful event, like we want to recreate in church. It was noisy and smelly and chaotic. It was pushing and shoving. It was entertainment -- look - another crucifixion - and most of the people watching had no appreciation that it was Jesus Christ the Son of God who was going to his death. It was just another gathering for them. So when it doesn't feel all pretty and holy, it's really more realistic.
That said, with huge, long lines waiting to touch this spot and see that possible real tomb spot, B & P & I ducked into the back room of the Coptic church and found NO one there at the time. The cave / tomb was lit by only a single candle. We climbed into the small space and were there in silence for a minute or two, alone, wondering if this was how Mary Magdalene felt on that dark morning.
Later we went through the Ethiopian Orthodox church and up onto the roof and through another chapel and a passageway to a cistern (for once I had the advantage being shorter then B & P !) In the cistern there was an amazing echo, making my single voiced Alleluia! sound like a whole choir.
After The Stations we headed to Jaffa Gate where we found a parade of bagpipers! A crowd gathered as the pipes played. I looked around at that point and saw Hasidim with their traditional spectacular fur hats (when they get hot they take them off there is a yarmulke underneath). And I saw Monks in long robes in various browns, whites and grays from various orders. And I saw people who were Asian. And I saw people in traditional African garb.
Remember the book of Acts?
The Apostles were gathered in Jerusalem where there were people from so many languages and tribes, and they were filled with the Holy Spirit and began to speak and everyone heard in their own language .... And here in Jerusalem it is today as it was then - people of all nations are gather.
For a moment I rejoiced at experiencing this. Pentecost happens still today!
Then I remembered.
I am living with a Palestinian family whose family has been Christian since the very first Pentecost, whose ancestral home is in the very Shepherds Fields where the angels proclaimed the birth of the baby Jesus.
But my host family is not allowed to come to Jerusalem. They have to stay behind The Wall.
The children who fly kites with my son in Bethlehem have never been allowed to travel the roads to Jerusalem, or walk the Via Dolorosa as we did this day.
It's like Pentecost -- except -- not for everyone.
We began our day today not far from where Jesus wept over Jerusalem.
He still weeps.
